If you’re interested in astrophotography with a telescope, or something like star trails in a landscape photo, you may want to seek more specialized information than the camera settings below. The D7200 is a strong DSLR candidate for advanced amateur photographers looking to step up their games. But since the ML-L3 has to be enabled for each use, it might be simpler to just connect the Vello to the camera for astrophotography sessions. However, because it takes two images in sequence, it also doubles the amount of time spent capturing each image. I’ve used their 14mm f/2.8 and 14mm f/2.4 for nighttime landscapes. My best mount can easily run 30 minute unguided subs at 1000mm with round stars and can probably do an hour. However for the past year circumstances have kept me and my serious astro gear over a thousand miles apart. This model DSLR has eliminated the optical low-pass filter (OLPF), known as an anti-aliasing filter, and should provide sharper images. I just switched it to Adelaide Australia and it automatically switched to Sigma Octantis as the alignment star and showed where to put it on the StarGuiderPro’s reticle (which of course changes constantly). This option takes two photos in sequence – the first of the scene in front of you, and the second a “dark frame” with nothing in it. I've had my 16 MB Nikon D7000 for 4.5 years and it is still a good camera, but I decided to upgrade to get the way higher native ISO for astrophotography. Another factor affecting your shutter speed is your personal willingness to allow motion blur in your photos. These are NOT included with the D7200, but are available for purchase separately. Nikon D5200. Here in Maine where I am ATM on a clear night it only takes me a few minutes to get a good enough polar alignment to shoot subs of many minutes duration with 200mm and under focal length lenses. Much appreciation. Specifically, you can do the following from the smartphone/tablet device app: a. The clear night sky under a new moon is almost always the same brightness in the same location. Yes, the settings above are mainly for wide-angle landscapes – getting into the realm of telephotos and equatorial mounts will require a more specialized article. I recently decided to buy a portable tracker to get my AP fix while away from my primary astro gear. Nor can you change exposure settings on the camera when the phone is connected and in the "Take photos" mode; you have to exit the Take Photos mode (but you can leave the app running), change the camera settings manually, and then tap "Take photos" again. 12.5. This image, because it was shot in clear atmospheric conditions, allows the Milky Way to be seen. However, wider apertures are still preferable, since they can cut down your exposure times dramatically. Photo of the Week Audi-Go-Round by Alaska Man. In the bridge image above, for example, the bridge itself isn’t especially sharp – but the sharp stars make the overall photo appear quite detailed. In most cases, the stars take priority. Sigma Octantis aka Polaris Australis is used. The D7200 does not save the "use ML-L3" setting when the camera is powered off. I'm Spencer Cox, a landscape photographer better known for my macro photography! This one depends very strongly upon your subject, though. Now, you just need a good composition. For most of my photography, both general and astrophotography, I expect to use 6000x4000. If your camera settings aren’t optimal, you may end up with a dark photo, motion blur, or unsharp corners. But, almost always there is a penalty to be paid in vignetting or coma performance so often you end up stopping down your expensive, heavy, fast glass to get a better balance of performance and time. 33. The camera arrived on 2 April 2015. Nikon lens provide you with a better chance if you are planning to get some fantastic astrophotography shots. :-( Lesson learned, Hi Gert, Many folks who are less tolerant of trails than average (guilty) use the rule of 400 if they must approximate, but tend to use tools like the one in PhotoPills that takes declination and sensor pixel density into account. Just one question, if I were to use my 24mm lens at f2.8 for these types of images where exactly should I be focussing, on the landscape, the stars or the nearest area to me in the image? Thank you in advance. I am getting back into photograpy after 35 years beside point and shoot and smart phone pictures. Personally, my favorite focal length for this type of photography is anything 20mm and wider, but longer lenses can work, too. TBH, I am finding it rather overwhelming to wade through the countless similar blogs, forum posts, and information I am finding via Google. If you are on Twitter you can use the button below to tweet this report to your followers. With the D7000 I frequently used the ML-L3 when doing short exposures (i.e., 30 seconds or less) and used the Vello for longer exposures (>30 seconds). c. Take the photo by tapping the shutter icon in the app. The Nikon D7500 is the newest addition in Nikon's prosumer DX-format DSLR cameras, and fits in between the D7200 and the D500. Viewing photos (below right) lets you select a photo and do further operations. g. Specify whether or not to password protect the Wi-Fi connection. So I added the ML-L3 menu item to my personalized menu. Image size may be modified as necessary. 400 (try 800 as well) 11.8. Ultra-wide lenses offer a few major advantages for photographing the night sky. It is best practice to check the “M” (manual) position of the mode dial and the position for setting the lens to manual focus in advance. You can shoot nighttime photos at any focal length, but it depends upon the type of image you want to take. The eclipse was the first astrophotography with the D7200. The 60fps video would come in handy for planetary imaging and ISS moon/sun transits. In other articles I have found a rule of thumb regarding maximum shutter speed, which works good for me: The 500 rule. Are the badics still going to remain the same (wide angle lense, widest appurture, 10-20 sec shutter speed and 1600 ISO? You can also use the highly visible southern cross (magnitude 2.8) I’m told. Page 1 of 2 - Nikon D5300 users - what is optimum ISO setting for astro? • Image quality: 12-bit RAW (NEF) • Exposure: [M] mode, 30 seconds, f/2.0. I had not expected that!!!! Rather ingenious, really, though I haven’t tried it. I am always a sucker for the next lens that might be useful for AP. How to take photographs of moon? In the first case, yes, the settings in this article hold true (as in the last image above, which has the moon in it). I never had a problem with the Mode Dial on the D7000 (or D70) rotating on its own so I'm not certain why Nikon felt it needed to add a lock button to the Mode Dial on the D7200. Mainly due to the fact that there is compatible software available and perhaps due to the astro-models of the Canon, it seems to have become the first choice of every astrophotographer that is using a DSLR. It was a very enlighten article. It’s very sharp wide open, has no coma, and is fast enough to gather a great deal of light in a short time. But if your lens’s maximum aperture is something like f/2.8 or f/4 instead, it usually is not a good idea to stop down any further – 1/3 stop at most – because you’re already pretty short on light. This means you see no difference between brightening the photo in-camera with a higher ISO versus brightening in post-processing software like Lightroom or Photoshop. To do these long exposures you will need to watch a clock when using the … I was always forgetting to update the time in my D7000 camera, which drifted somewhat, so this is a nice feature for me. I do not hold this out as a wonderful image, but it is decent and made with a pretty inexpensive lens and tracker. However, I’m including it here because some readers may be interested in knowing how to capture stars with as much color detail as possible. Z6ii vs. Z7ii which has better tonal gradation? 1. On my first day out I got round stars on 8 minutes base ISO exposures at 105mm. But, lots of folks image down under. 9.6. Although there are some calculations to help you find the optimal shutter speed – some of which are quite accurate, taking the direction you’re photographing into account – it’s often faster just to guess and check. Open link: photos.app.goo.gl/dSiZxLXrXVQvs7NS8 (Nex-7 w/ Samyang 12mm f2 @f2, 30″, ISO 800). Use manual or bulb mode. There are two schools of thought here: It’s usually best to do exactly what you would expect and shoot at a high ISO for nighttime photography. Unfortunately, there seems to be no menu option to disable this unwanted display. I ordered the Nikon D7200 DSLR Kit from OPT on 17 March 2015. If your goal is a classic landscape with the Milky Way overhead, and you want everything to be as sharp as possible, the best plan is to use your widest possible lens. Their shutter speeds at night may be no more than five or ten seconds. 200. Tweet !function(d,s,id){var js,fjs=d.getElementsByTagName(s)[0],p=/^http:/.test(d.location)? The D7200 has separate exposure settings for Photo vs Movie shooting (the D7000 did not), and while that is a nice feature you do have to confirm you are using the correct exposure settings when switching shooting modes. Ultimately, your shutter speed will be in the range of 10-25 seconds for most nighttime work, with potentially longer or shorter shutter speeds depending upon your situation. The stars are simply so dim that you need to do everything possible in order to capture them as bright as possible. These considerations will change depending upon the shot you want, of course – such as a wide-angle landscape versus a deep-sky image – but everything in the end is about capturing light. Very useful information for astro and landscape photography at night. The second change in firmware that really annoys me is when pressing the -/ISO button to change the ISO setting. Anyone who has ever tried to take pictures of the night sky knows that it can be a challenge. If the camera is set to save Raw+JPEG then the JPEG version is downloaded to the device. What about shooting Lunar Eclipse? Specifically, some cameras are close to ISO invariant at low ISOs. Thank you, Tony, glad you liked it. I used these buttons frequently on the D7000 and old habits die hard. To do these long exposures you will need to watch a clock when using the camera "bulb" setting; you press the Camera button once to start the exposure and then again to end the exposure. The result is much lower noise (which you drive even lower by stacking multiple subs) and if you use a higher aperture lower vignetting, probably better coma performance. f. Manually or automatically sync the camera date/time to the device time. Nikon 14-24mm f/2.8 lens - this is wide-wide field astrophotography totally invariant at ISOs... To connect to the use of my photography, both general and astrophotography, advice I ’ put. 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